Tremblage

Hand engraving in German silver: fascinating charm

Material and surface form a fascinating liaison. German silver is an alloy of copper, nickel and zinc, among others, which is frequently used in historical watches and movements. Thanks to the surface treatment, this alloy produces a silver-like hue with an aesthetic vintage look. The three-dimensional appearance of the dial underscores the effect: The numerals of the hours and circular small seconds rise above the surface, as does the historic “M. Grossmann” logo from 1875, which goes back to Moritz Grossmann, the famous watchmaking pioneer who gave his name to the Glashütte manufactory.

These are not mounted appliqués. On the contrary, the base of the dial has been cut out and removed so that the logo, numerals and seconds circle remain. A task that also requires meticulous care to create clean edges. The top of the numerals, logo and seconds circle were also given a flat polish finish.

Only then did the dial undergo the painstaking tremblage process in Glashütte, a method that takes numerous hours. A single dial can take an engraver several days to complete. The whole is complemented by the meticulous craftsmanship of the finishers.

The result is exquisite – a uniquely crafted work of art with an even, fine grain that softens the effect of incident light and lends a wonderfully matt appearance to the tremblage surface. The lavishly flat polished raised elements create a lustrous contrast.

Version
Rose gold, Stainless Steel

Movement
Manufacture calibre 100.1, manually wound, adjusted in five positions

No. of parts
198

No. of jewels
20, of which 3 in screwed gold chatons

Escapement
Lever escapement

Oscillator
Gustav Gerstenberger geometry, Nivarox 1 balance spring, Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with 4 inertia and 2 poising screws, with No. 80 Breguet terminal curve

Balance
Diameter: 14.2 mm, Frequency: 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour

Power reserve
42 hours when fully wound

Operating elements
Crown in 750/000 gold/ stainless steel to wind the watch and set the time, pusher in 750/000 gold/ stainless steel to start the movement

Functions
Hours and minutes, subsidiary seconds with stop seconds, Grossmann manual winder with pusher

Case
750/000 gold, stainless steel, three part

Case Dimensions
Diameter: 41.0 mm, height: 11.35 mm

Movement dimensions
Diameter: 36.4 mm, height: 5.0 mm

Dial
German silver, tremblage

Hands
annealed to a brown-violet or blue hue, steel, Hand-crafted

Crystal / display back
Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side

Special Features
grained train bridge, Grossmann balance, Grossmann manual winder with pusher for uncoupling the handsetting mode and restarting the movement, space saving and modified Glashütte stopwork with backlash, adjustment with Grossmann micrometer screw on a cantilevered balance cock, pillar movement with 2/3 plate and frame pillars in untreated German silver, 2/3 plate, balance cock and escape-wheel cock hand-engraved, 3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel, raised gold chatons with pan-head screws, separately removable clutch winder, stop seconds for handsetting

Strap
alligator leather

Strap color
Black, Dark Brown, Blue

Closer
Folding clasp, Pin buckle

Strap Length
XS (-1 cm), Normal, XL (+1 cm)